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In a craft that tends to be very structured and rule-oriented, I love playing with patterns to see what other forms I can make it create.
For me, a new project always starts with curiosity, usually from seeing some specific part of an existing pattern, or some small detail in a cloth that I really like. It could be a shape, a curve, a line, or a section of blocks. Then asking, what would happen if I made this part bigger, or squished those together, or took that part away, or… ? Either I’ll want to blow it up, highlight it, or morph it somehow.
Using weave formats that utilize an Overshot structure helps to maximize pattern play. Since the tabby picks maintain the structure of the cloth, it leaves the pattern threads open to anything.
I always start by writing out a threading draft, but very rarely will I write out the treadling. The treadling comes as I’m weaving, as a let’s see what happens if experiment. Not really knowing how it will work or what it will look like when that cloth comes off the loom is half the fun! I know that may sound stressful, but when you let go of the constraints of making a specific item, much of that stress goes out the window. There’s no counting, or specific measurements you need to keep track of. No whoops, that wasn’t supposed to go there, or is this long float gonna get caught on everything? (Needless to say, a lot of my work is strictly decorative.) You free yourself to just roll with it and have fun. Let the weaving guide you.
When I’m weaving a new pattern, I make a warp long enough to fit multiple pieces, giving myself plenty of room to experiment. For the first piece, I weave the full expanse of the cloth in some sort of uniform blocks so I can see what I’m working with, before I start eliminating certain elements.
I love using a “cut away” method to create negative space and shapes in cloth. Similar to Inlay, I’ll only weave the pattern thread over very specific portions of the warp, leaving sections of just Plain Weave visible.
To eliminate one side of the pattern, instead of weaving the pattern thread across the entire width of the cloth, I’ll stop early and turn around, leaving one side patterned, and the other side just plain weave. If my goal is to “cut out” a middle section of the pattern. I’ll weave pattern threads from either edge towards the middle, stopping and turning where I want the pattern to stop, leaving the middle section as just Plain Weave. If I’m trying to eliminate both sides, I’ll work the pattern thread just in the middle. I always “turn around” the pattern threads towards the back portion of the cloth, so they are hidden from view (another bonus of decorative pieces is that it’s ok if you’ve got a bit of a mess in the back).
You don’t need to write out your own patterns to have some fun making a decorative piece. You can play with any existing pattern. Even a simple Twill can be played with to create decorative pieces. If I am making a functional piece, say a set of table linens, I usually still add some extra warp at the end just for a little fun. Some of my earliest experiments were with simple Twills woven as Overshot. Again, with an Overshot structure, the Plain Weave is creating the cloth, so the pattern thread can go anywhere. You can play with cutting portions out of a pattern, but you can also play with expanding or contracting the number of pattern repeats. Say your pattern calls for a 5x repeat of a certain treadle. Try expanding it to 20x, and watch that pattern stretch. Or if it’s a long repeat see happens when you shrink it down. Or try long and short repeats together.
Experiment using Inlay
Experimental variation of the Contrast Block Table Set
There is so much potential to what one pattern can do. I think the hardest part is taking that leap of faith to just play and see what happens. Sometimes you will not like what comes out and those will become learning experiences. I definitely have my fair share of rejects which I cut up and turn into something else like coasters, or smaller decorative pieces mounted to cardstock. Most of the time though, I am pleasantly surprised with what comes off the loom. It’s always such a fun anticipation waiting for that reveal day, when everything rolls off the cloth beam. By the time I’ve finished an entire warp I’ve usually forgotten what’s even on the very beginning. And although you can see what you're weaving as you go, you’re looking at it folded and wrapped, and only so many inches at a time. When you really get to see the whole thing at once, it’s a wonderful experience. Give it a try and have fun!
Contrast Block Table Set by Kate Koconis
